Korea Island Hopping: Beyond Jeju

Geojedo (Geoje Island) is Korea's second-largest island after Jeju, connected to the mainland by bridge near Busan. It's big enough to spend two or three days exploring. Haegeumgang, a cluster of dramatic rock formations rising from the sea at the island's southern tip, is best seen by tour boat—the rocks glow in early morning light. Windy Hill, a hillside of windmills overlooking the coast, became famous as a filming location for the drama "Eve's Garden" and remains one of Geoje's most photographed spots. From Geoje, excursion boats run to Oedo Botania, a privately-owned island transformed into a stunning botanical garden with over 3,000 plant species and Mediterranean-style terraces overlooking the sea. Tongyeong sits at the heart of Hallyeo Maritime National Park, Korea's only marine national park. The Hallyeosu cable car—one of Korea's longest—offers sweeping views over scattered islands. In town, Dongpirang Mural Village covers a hillside in colorful street art, originally painted by volunteers to save the neighborhood from demolition. The seafood here rivals anywhere in Korea; Tongyeong is especially known for chungmu gimbap, small rice rolls served with spicy radish and squid. Wando, further southwest in Jeollanam-do, is famous for its exceptionally clean waters and abalone farming. Wando produces most of Korea's abalone, and you'll find it prepared every way imaginable—raw, grilled, in porridge, even in bibimbap. The beaches are uncrowded and the pace is slow. Namhae is technically Korea's fifth-largest island, connected by bridge. The German Village (Dogil Maeul) is a curious hilltop settlement built by Koreans who worked as miners and nurses in Germany during the 1960s-70s and returned with German-style houses. Daraengi Village features rice terraces carved into steep seaside cliffs over centuries—stunning in late summer when the paddies are green.

Muuido is the closest island getaway from Seoul and Incheon—now connected by bridge, so you don't even need a ferry. Hanagae Beach has fine sand and shallow water, making it popular with families. It's a genuine island escape that's doable as a day trip from the capital, though staying overnight at one of the pensions near the beach is more relaxing. Deokjeokdo requires more effort but rewards it. A two-hour ferry ride from Incheon's Yeonan Pier brings you to Seopori Beach, one of the most beautiful stretches of sand on Korea's west coast. The beach is backed by old-growth pine trees, and the island has good hiking trails. It's popular with Seoulites looking for a weekend escape, so book accommodation early in summer. Seonyudo, accessible from Gunsan, is part of a cluster of islands connected by bridges that you can explore on foot or by bicycle. At low tide, the sea between some islands recedes enough to walk across—a surreal experience. Rent a bike and spend a day crossing bridges between islands, stopping at small beaches along the way. The cycling paths are flat and well-maintained. Sinan County in Jeollanam-do encompasses over 1,000 islands (hence the nickname '1004 Islands'—1004 is cheonsa in Korean, which also means 'angel'). The standout is Purple Island (Banwoldo and Bakjido), where houses, roads, bridges, and even phone booths have been painted purple. It's surreal and very photogenic. Nearby, Sinan's salt flats produce some of Korea's finest sea salt—you can visit and learn about traditional salt harvesting.

Ulleungdo is Korea's most dramatic island destination. This volcanic island sits about 130 km off the east coast, reached by a 3-hour ferry from Pohang or Donghae (ferry times vary with weather and season). The island is essentially the peak of an underwater volcano, with sheer cliffs plunging into deep blue water, dense forests, and no flat land to speak of. A coastal road circles most of the island, offering jaw-dropping views at every turn. Squid is Ulleungdo's signature—you'll see it drying on racks everywhere, and squid dishes dominate local menus. The island's squid, caught in surrounding waters, is considered Korea's best. Nari Basin, a caldera in the island's interior, is the one flat area and home to a small traditional village. Bongrae Falls and the Seonginbong peak hike (984 m) are highlights for active visitors. From Ulleungdo, day-trip ferries run to Dokdo (Liancourt Rocks) when weather permits, though sailings are frequently cancelled due to rough seas. Even from Ulleungdo, Dokdo is another 1.5 hours by fast boat. If you do make it, the stop on the island is brief—about 30 minutes to walk the dock area. Baengnyeongdo is Korea's westernmost and northernmost accessible island, sitting near the Northern Limit Line close to North Korea. It takes about 4 hours by ferry from Incheon. Sagot Beach is unique—its sand is so firm and flat that it was reportedly used as a natural airstrip during the Korean War. The island has a remote, frontier-like atmosphere quite unlike anywhere else in South Korea. Visiting requires some planning, and military presence is noticeable.

Ferry bookings for most Korean islands can be made through badaro.com (가보고싶은섬), the main domestic ferry reservation platform. Some routes can only be booked on the day at the terminal, but popular routes like Ulleungdo fill up fast in summer—book as early as possible. Bring your passport or ID; it's checked at boarding. Some ferries carry cars, which is useful for larger islands like Geojedo or Namhae. For smaller islands, you won't need a car—bikes or walking are better. Car ferry spots are limited and book up quickly in peak season. Seasickness is real on Korean ferries, especially the east coast routes to Ulleungdo. Seas can be rough. Take motion sickness medication before boarding, not after you feel sick. Most ferry terminals sell it, but bring your own to be safe. Accommodation on Korean islands is typically minbak (민박, family-run guesthouses) or pensions (펜션, rental cottages). Don't expect hotel-level amenities—rooms are often basic but clean. In peak summer, prices spike and availability drops, so reserve ahead. Best timing depends on what you want. Summer (July-August) is peak beach season but also the most crowded and prone to typhoons. Autumn is ideal for Ulleungdo's foliage and calmer seas. Spring brings wildflowers to many islands. Winter is quiet and cold, with reduced ferry schedules. Weather cancellations are the biggest variable in island travel. Ferries get cancelled for rough seas, fog, or typhoons—sometimes for days. Always have a backup plan and don't schedule a ferry on the same day as a flight home. Island food is almost universally seafood-heavy and excellent—fresh fish, shellfish, seaweed, and dried squid are staples everywhere.